Meet Africa’s New Chocolatocracy (published in Bon Appetit)

When we think of chocolate, brands like Hershey, Cadbury, Godiva, and Nestle’s often come to mind. But at the annual Salon du Chocolate—the world’s largest event devoted exclusively to chocolate and cocoa—they have at least 230 brands to sample and savor. Every fall, Paris’ colossal Porte de Versailles event center morphs into a chocolate wonderland.

At this five-day festival, the 100,000 plus attendees descend like bees to flowers into this mass celebration of chocolate to purchase exotic treasures from chocolatiers hailing from over 60 countries, attend culinary and artistic competitions, chocolate making workshops, musical performances, and there is even a fashion show, where models sashay about the stage wearing edible designer chocolate outfits.

I attended my first Salon during my annual trip to Paris in 2007. What began as the adventure of a chocolate lover has become a pilgrimage. All my trips to Paris now coincide with the Salon.

Last year, as I wandered through the villages of vibrant stalls, many assembled by region or theme, something new caught my eye. A large pavilion sign that read “She Trades”. Its booths were colorfully festooned with African patterns, symbols and images that showcased five African women-owned companies. Bearing witness to these mavericks of Africa’s chocolate industry was a wonder to behold. After attending so many salons, I realized that I had never met an African woman chocolate manufacturer. It was an honor, privilege and delight to peruse the pavilion, nibble the samples and hear their stories.

I was particularly captivated by the beautifully engraved Adinkra symbols rising from the small chocolate squares displayed at the “57 Chocolate” booth. Their shapes, colors and flavors were so vivid and rich.

Kimberly Addison, “57’s” co-founder noticed my unbridled awe at her beautiful creations and warmly welcomed me into her booth. After exchanging pleasantries, I asked her to tell me how “57” came to be.

“My sister, Priscilla and I got the idea after visiting Swiss chocolate factory.

“We realized that Switzerland was making great chocolate with Ghanaian cacao bean. We thought, ‘If Switzerland can make great chocolate with our resources, why can’t we? We returned to Ghana and began learning how to make chocolate in our home kitchen.”  And 57 Chocolate was born.

She said their goal is to make chocolate of equal or better quality than the famous chocolates that inspired them.

My exploratory nibbles of their various offerings convinced me they had succeeded. I started with their glossy and smooth 73 percent dark chocolate. It had the perfect ratio of earthiness and mild sweetness with a tantalizing tinge of nuttiness. Each bite left me wanting more…and more. Next, I tried their Bissap white chocolate. Its surprising burst of hibiscus flavors did a cha cha cha on my tongue. It felt silky, even luxurious as it melted in my mouth. I thought to myself, “This is the place where diets go to die”.

57 Chocolate’s cocoa-rich bean-to-bar chocolates are 100% natural. They contain no artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. Some of the chocolates are infused with distinctive local ingredients like moringa leaf (a potent superfood), mocha, and toasted coconut, but they also create classic light, dark, and white chocolates, with and without nuts.

“You learn to work with the resources you have,” Kimberly says. “You have a tiny little resource, and it’s a seed. And you water it, and it grows.”

I asked her about the company’s name and she replied, “It pays homage to the year 1957 when Ghana gained political independence from England and acknowledges our country’s growing economic independence from the chocolate manufacturing industry. We also want our chocolate to be a reflection of Ghanaian art.”

And their collection is definitely a delight to the eye and the palate. The Adinkra symbols that are stamped on their chocolates were created by cultural group called the Ashanti in the 1800’s. Originally, the symbols were printed on fabrics worn only by royalty and spiritual leaders on special occasions. The 122 symbols have a decorative function but also encapsulate evocative messages that convey traditional wisdom, aspects of life, depict historical events or the environment.  Today, Adinkra printed fabrics can be worn by anyone and the symbols are widely used throughout present-day Ghana not only on clothing, but furniture, jewelry, art, architecture and now on chocolate. The “57” chocolatiers chose symbols that represent beauty, humility, strength, and resourcefulness. Each perfect square is an iconic piece of luscious art.

For the past 150 years, Africa has produced nearly 70% of the world’s finest cacao beans, but less than 1% of the world’s chocolate. Western companies have dominated the $110 billion chocolate manufacturing industry, while Africa’s two million cocoa bean farmers average less than $1 per day. But “times are now a changing”, thanks to a new generation of entrepreneurial African women chocolatiers, like the Addison sisters. The centuries old paradigm is shifting. Instead of sending cocoa beans to other countries around the world to be turned into the finished chocolates they are actually manufacturing chocolates in Ghana and developing a new generation of talented chocolatiers in the process.

Their evolutionary fair-trade chocolates are a guilt-free indulgence worth celebrating. Thank you, Salon Du Chocolate, for another magnificent discovery.

If you would like to enjoy some deeply satisfying fair trade, guilt free, farm to table chocolate, consider checking out “57 Chocolate”. It can be purchased from their website at https://www.57chocolategh.com or to lessen shipping costs consider ordering from U.S. based website: www.soulandstoryinc.com/chocolate-shop

Link to story: https://www.bonappetit.com/story/57-chocolate-adrinka

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